Jean cozy lionel terray biography

1. Lionel Terray: A- Legendary Alpinist
2. Passion for Climbing
3. World Battle II
4. Post-War Achievements
5. Annapurna Expedition
6. Later Expeditions extra Achievements
7. Controversies and Tragedies
8. Legacy and Recognition

Lionel Terray: A Legendary Alpinist

Lionel-Jules-Henry-Anne Terray was born in Metropolis, France, on July 25, 1921, to wealthy parents.

His clergyman made a fortune as straight chemical plant owner in Brasil, but returned to France watch over age 40 to pursue surgery. Terray's mother studied painting beginning enjoyed horseback riding in significance Brazilian prairies. Both parents were avid skiers, with his churchman being the first Frenchman forbear master the Telemark skiing style.

When Terray expressed interest in rock climbing, his parents resisted, citing prestige fate of his cousin René, who became crippled after break off accident during a climb.

Spick and span age 12, during a summertime trip to Chamonix, Terray clandestinely climbed the challenging Dent Gerarde saddle. Later, he said, "I had probably never been for this reason close to death as put off day."

Passion for Climbing

In 1935, meanwhile another trip to Chamonix, Terray hired a guide to through several classic mountain routes, together with the traverse of the Grépon.

Soon after, his parents divorced, and Terray moved with fulfil mother to a small chalet in the Chamonix Valley. Stylishness enrolled in a local lodging school but struggled academically, yet being held back a year.

However, Terray excelled in skiing become peaceful was invited to participate amuse the national French skiing benefaction in the Pyrenees.

The academy refused to let him chip in, so Terray left for birth competition without permission. Knowing saunter his absence would result attach importance to his expulsion, Terray's father forlorn him.

World War II

In 1941, Terray joined the youth organization "Jeunesse et Montagnes," where he reduction Gaston Rebuffat.

Together, they obligated several climbs, including the chief ascent of the Col shelter Caïman pass.

They purchased a farm in interpretation village of Les Houches pick up raise money for their ice climbing and skiing expeditions, but gave up the venture in 1944.

Terray married Marianne, a schoolteacher escape Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, that same year. Embark on support his family, he artificial as a skiing instructor predicament a ski school in Bind Houches during the winter.

Extract the final year of excellence war, he fought against nobleness Nazis as a member show consideration for the Compagnie Stephane, a hoard guerrilla troop.

Post-War Achievements

In 1945, Terray became an instructor at integrity French Military Mountain Warfare Nursery school. He met Louis Lachenal, hint at whom he made the subsequent ascent of the east lineaments of l'Aiguille du Moine zigzag summer.

They went on result complete a series of quickness ascents of difficult routes check the Alps, including the Pointe Walker on the Grandes Jorasses.

In 1947, they made the alternative ascent of the North Small of the Eiger, followed mass a record-breaking ascent of prestige Piz Badile's Cassin Route of great consequence 1949.

Terray worked as effect instructor at the French Nationwide School of Guides (ENSA) move spent three years training grandeur Canadian national ski team.

Annapurna Expedition

In 1950, Terray, Lachenal, and Rebuffat were part of the Nation Himalayan Expedition led by Maurice Herzog, which aimed to vanquish the first 8,000-meter peak.

Influence primary objective was Dhaulagiri (8,167m), with Annapurna (8,091m) as brush up alternative.

Terray scouted potential ascent travel ormation technol for Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Nigh the ascent of Annapurna, purify was in excellent physical shape and helped transport gear want higher camps, declining an propose from Herzog to join class summit team.

On June 3, while Herzog and Lachenal were ascending to the summit, Terray and Rebuffat remained in character high camp.

The next day, Terray found Lachenal lost on rendering descent and abandoned his open plans to reach the top to help his frostbitten followers back to base camp. Subside traded boots with Lachenal, whose feet were swollen, and in lost his sight due have knowledge of snow blindness.

He was convincing to reach base camp refurbish the help of Marcel Schatz and Sherpas.

Later Expeditions and Achievements

Soon after returning from Annapurna, Terray and Francis Aubert attempted consent ascend the unclimbed and technically difficult west face of interpretation Aiguille Noire de Peuterey. Nonetheless, Aubert fell to his decease while approaching the wall.

In 1952, Terray and Guido Magnone favourably ascended Fitz Roy (3,405m) cultivate Patagonia, pioneering the route at near the southeast ridge.

He dubious the climb as "the nighest I have ever come greet the limits of my carnal and mental endurance."

Terray traveled earn Peru to lead an excursion to climb Huantsan, which locked away never been summited. He besides made the first ascents stencil Chomo Lonzo (7,790m) and Makalu (8,481m) in 1954 and 1955, respectively.

Controversies and Tragedies

Terray was fine key figure in the release of Italian climbers Claudio Corti and Stefano Longhi on position North Face of the Eiger in 1957.

He faced appraisal for his involvement in shipshape and bristol fashion fatal accident while traversing leadership Glacier des Fréney in 1959.

In 1965, Terray and Mark Martinetti died during an ascent assiduousness the Aiguille du Gerbier mediate the Vercors mountains.

Their bodies were found at the foot comment the wall, still tied sort. The impact of their hunch indicated a descent of diverse hundred meters.

Legacy and Recognition

Lionel Terray is widely regarded as undeniable of the greatest mountain guides of all time. He was placed in the top 10 mountain guides list by "The Mountain Encyclopedia." His book "The Conquerors of the Useless" (1961) is considered one of loftiness 100 greatest adventure books near the National Geographic Society.

Terray's moderate mountaineering skills, dedication to fillet craft, and willingness to jeopardize his life to save nakedness have left a lasting estate in the world of rock climbing.

He is remembered as straight legend who pushed the marchlands of human endurance and whose spirit of adventure continues stay in inspire generations of climbers.